Hem Allowance Calculator
Different hems need different allowances. A narrow hem uses ½", a blind hem uses 1¾", a faced hem uses just the seam allowance. Choose your hem type, set the depth, and get the exact allowance to add — plus step-by-step pressing and sewing instructions.
Choosing a hem type
Double fold is the default for most garments — it encloses the raw edge completely and works for almost any fabric weight. Narrow/baby hem is better for lightweight fabrics where a wider hem would add bulk.
Blind hem is the choice for formal garments where no stitching should be visible from the outside. Faced hem is essential for curved hems (circle skirts, scalloped edges) where a straight fold would distort the shape.
Topstitched is the casual/sporty option — visible stitching that becomes a design element. Rolled serger hem is the fastest and lightest option if you have an overlocker.
Pressing matters more than sewing
The quality of a hem depends more on accurate pressing than on the stitch itself. Every fold should be pressed first — measure, pin, press, then sew. A hem gauge (small metal ruler with a slider) is worth its weight in gold for consistent depth.
For curved hems, ease the curve as you press — use steam and your fingers to shape the fabric smoothly around the curve. Never stretch the fabric when pressing, as this creates waves.